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How To Build A Stone Patio

How To Build A Stone Patio

There are several methods to installing a patio or walkway depending on how much you want to get involved or what your budget allows. The two methods are dry set or mortar set. Dry set can be done either directly on the ground, or as we recommend, in a gravel/sand base. The other method is mortar set, installed into wet cement.

Ground Set- Use 1-2" or thicker flagstone or stepstones

The simplest, quickest, and most economical way is to set the stones directly on the ground. If they are going in a grassy area, simply cut away the grass enough for the stones to fit. Just make sure the ground you're setting them on is well-drained, and or they may settle unevenly over time. To build a lasting, reliable, finished job we recommend either a sand set in 1/4-inch minus crushed gravel, or mortar set.


Sand Set- Use 1-2" or thicker flagstone or stepstones

1. Check with local building codes and appropriate utility companies before digging.
2. Excavate the desired area to a depth of your thickest stone plus 2-3 inches for the gravel base. For example, if your stone is 2 inches at the thickest point and the suggested base is 2-3 inches thick you'll need to allow for a 4-5 inch total depth. You can achieve this by cutting into the existing grade, or building on top and adding forms or border stone along the sides to contain the area.
3. Add the 3 inches or so of 1/4-inch minus crushed gravel and tamp it down as much as possible. After tamping use a fine spray and water it down twice. This will help compact the base properly, which is called hydro-compaction.
4. Arrange the stone in the desired pattern trying to keep consistent joints, most common are 1/2"-1", and breaking them up so there are no continuous running lines. Stones may be hand-trimmed with a rock hammer or saw cut to achieve desired fit.
5. Using a rubber hammer, tap the stones into place adding 1/4-inch minus to low areas and removing from high areas so the stone seats firmly. Check with a carpenter's level to ensure entire area is level, allowing for a slight pitch towards the edges for drainage.
6. Sweep more 1/4-inch minus over the top to fill the gaps and joints and follow up with a light spray again. Repeat a couple days later. If you prefer mosses or other vegetation to grow in the joints adding topsoil to the joints instead of 1/4" minus would work well.


Mortar Set- 1" thick or less is sufficient

1. Arrange the stone over an existing 3-4 inch thick concrete slab in the desired pattern trying to keep consistent joints, most common are about 1/2 inch wide, and breaking them up so there are no continuous running lines. Stones may be hand-trimmed with a rock hammer or saw cut to achieve desired fit.
2. In one tub mix concrete using 1 part cement and 4 parts sand to create a firm mixture that you can ball up easily in your hand. In another tub, mix up some "concrete butter" which is a much softer mixture of plain cement, like that of soft butter, but not runny.
3. Remove a few of the stones, and lightly wet the area of the concrete slab you'll be installing those stones on.
4. With a trowel lay a 1-inch or so thick layer of concrete and set the stones in it, lightly tapping them into place. The trowel handle works great for tapping. Check to ensure they are level and allow for a slight pitch for drainage.
5. Now carefully remove those stones and apply a small amount of "butter" on the concrete so as to not disturb the print of the fitted stones. It doesn't take much "butter."
6. Return each stone and gently tap them into place, again leveling as you go.
7. Remove the excess concrete from the joints while it is still soft enough to a depth of that of the stone.
8. Clean the rock surface with a sponge and water and let set 36 hours.
9. Make sure joints are clean, then mix grout using 1 part cement and 1 part mason sand and prepare until stiff.
10. Fill the joints with the grout and pack it in as tight as possible, trying to keep as much off the stone surface as you can.
11. Strike the joints with a tool to allow for consistent, smooth joints.
12. Clean stone surface again and allow grout to set 36 hours, keeping it moist throughout the curing stage.
13. Consider consulting a stone mason for more detailed instructions or suggestions.


 
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